Patios and Paving York

How the gaps between paving slabs are finished affects both appearance and durability. Traditional mortar pointing gives a solid, weed-resistant finish but can crack over time if the sub-base moves. Resin-based jointing compounds have become popular as an alternative, offering flexibility and weed resistance without some of the cracking issues associated with rigid mortar joints, particularly on larger paved areas exposed to temperature changes throughout the year.

A patio is only as good as what's underneath it. Proper construction involves excavating to sufficient depth, laying a compacted sub-base of hardcore or crushed stone, then bedding the paving on a mortar or sand bed with the correct falls (a slight slope, typically around 1 in 80) directing water away from the house rather than towards it. Skipping or skimping on the sub-base is the most common reason patios sink, crack or develop standing water within a few years of being laid.

Laying a patio in a rear or side garden generally doesn't require planning permission, since it's treated similarly to other permitted development groundwork. Front garden paving has its own specific rule worth knowing: if the new or replacement hard surfacing covers more than 5 square metres and uses an impermeable material (such as standard mortared paving) that doesn't allow water to drain away naturally, planning permission is needed. Using a permeable material, or directing water run-off to a lawn, border or soakaway within the property, avoids this requirement regardless of the area covered. We factor this into the design for any front garden project.